10 April 2009

bullfights and maple trees

Sorry, no new photos posted yet and I'm at school so I can't do it now. But here are two NY Times articles about two very different cultural traditions in South Korea. I found these in the last month or so and have been meaning to post them for awhile now.

05 April 2009

spring is here....to stay?

Today was a warmer sunny day finally, but there was still a cool, crisp breeze. When William and I went for an afternoon ride we could smell the ocean in the air at times. It was a fresh salty smell, and a nice change from the farm animal smell we often get. It makes sense since we're maybe only a 30 minute drive away from Pyeongtaek Port, but I never noticed an ocean smell when we arrived, before it got cold.

About halfway into our ride we rode up a steep climb that led to a little Buddhist temple. It's the red building in the background.
Then we rode back down and William tried to pet some cows, but they were too shy. They kept backing away but then he'd move a little bit and they'd come back. I think he finally got to pet one who was a little more brave than the rest.The magnolias are in bloom and they're beautiful. I love magnolias. It's getting prettier here now that things are starting to flower and turn green again. The farmers are all plowing their fields, so soon there will be lots of green to see. I can't wait!

Tomorrow I'll try to post some photos of our weekend trip to Seoul. William did a 120 km group ride. Yes, he's nuts, but it wasn't supposed to be that long. I'd thought about riding and am so glad I did not!

14 March 2009

white day

Store fronts have been advertising White Day for a few weeks now and I finally know what it means. In S. Korea, the 14th day of every month is a love-related day. February 14th is known as Red Day, March 14th is White Day, and April 14th is Black Noodle Day. These are the three most important of the love-related days.

From what I understand, it is the woman's responsibility to remember Red Day and give chocolate gifts to men. Then, on White Day it is the man's turn and they're expected to give non-chocolate candy to the woman (or women) who remembered them the previous month.

On Black Noodle Day, unmarried 20-somethings, who didn’t receive any gifts on Feb. or Mar. 14th, can join other singles at Chinese restaurants around the country to eat black bean-paste noodles (jjajangmyun짜장면). I think I've had these noodles and they're pretty good, but 3 months into the year do you really need to be reminded if no one thought of you on the previous love-related day? On the other hand, if you meet the love of your life on Black Noodle Day then it's probably worth it.

I found a website that lists the other love days as:
January - Candle Day
May - Rose Day
June - Kiss Day
July - Silver Day
August - Green Day
September - Music Day
October - Wine Day
November - Movie Day
December - Hug Day

08 March 2009

Hyeonchungsa temple

Admiral Yi Sun-sin is considered a Korean military hero. William and I visited a temple compound that commemorates his military achievements against the Japanese in the late 1500's and early 1600's. Hyeonchungsa was originally built in Asan, Korea, in 1706.

The Gubonjeon, or Old Main Hall (left photo), was reconstructed in 1932 and moved to its current location.

A new Bonjeon (Main Hall) was built in 1967-8. The painted eves photos here are part of this newer Bonjeon.








I like the intricate architectural details and the bright colors.
A portrait of Admiral Yi is kept in this newer hall. We went on a cold day and there were very few other people around. Even so, there was a pot of incense burning at the entrance to the Bonjeon. I wondered if it is always burning but don't know the answer.


The area also had a museum dedicated to Admiral Yi. There were some interesting ancient artifacts, including this model of a Geobukseon (turtle ship). Invented by Admiral Yi in 1592, the caption indicated that the turtle ship was the world's first ironclad ship. In the Picasa album are more artifact photos.

Parting shots: in front of the Bonjeon. It had a nice view of the mountains.

23 February 2009

spa weekend

William and I experienced a new aspect of Korean culture recently, a spa weekend. On our bike rides to the nearby mountains, William found a spa resort and after searching online I found out that spa towns have sprouted up all over Korea because of the existence of natural hot springs, so we decided to spend a weekend in the spa town of Asan, about a 1/2 hour south of Pyeongtaek.

According to one website, "hot spring water in Korea contains particularly generous amounts of minerals. Although it depends on the spring and the region, they usually include chrome, iron, yoderite, zinc, kalium (potassium), magnesium, calcium, natrium (sodium), manganese, radon, and others, each of which have beneficial effects for the body." I also found some dubious claims, such as the spas being "extremely effective in treating obesity."

Though I highly doubt the obesity claim, I thought it was pretty cool that the area we went to is believed to be where Korea's first hot springs were discovered about 1,300 years ago. It was even famous with royalty. Supposedly, there are records that show the area attracted those who hoped to benefit from the waters, including Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) royalty. But, the kings definitely had a much different experience than we did.

It seems there's a lot of false advertising related to these hot springs. Pictures tend to show people lounging in the springs in a natural outdoor setting. I'm sure it was probably like that in the time of the kings, but not anymore.

The spa we went to consisted of a big room with multiple irregularly shaped pools on the base floor of our hotel. (photo: hotel lobby) The pools had varying water temperatures, including an herbal pool that was a dark greenish color and smelled almost like green tea. There were also a lot of shower fixtures along the walls and near another smaller pool. All the water is fed into the room from the natural hot springs but the surroundings themselves are anything but natural. There was a very small outdoor hot pool, but it lacked water during our visit.

Men and women are separated, so after paying the modest fee William and I parted ways for about an hour. We were each given a key for a locker to put all our belongings in, including clothes. It's the cultural norm to be in the nude while in the hot springs, which is why there are no pictures of the spa itself and why men and women are separated. This was awkward at first but no one else seemed to notice. Most Koreans have probably been going to these hot springs their entire lives. They start young because there were some very little kids, both boys and girls, on the women's side. I guess we picked a busy time of day because it was really crowded.

Even though the setting wasn't quite what we expected, relaxing in the hot pools was still nice. I started in what was labeled the "hot pool" at 58 C (136 F), and went next to the "warm" herbal pool. They were labeled wrong. The herbal pool was probably the one closer to 136 F, which I discovered when I entered too quickly. I don't know the cold pool temp but it was a shock after the hot pools. There was also a closed off sauna. The air was so hot that it was hard to breathe. If it's really possible to sweat out the toxins, it occurred in that sauna!

When William and I met back up in the lobby, I felt relaxed and refreshed. It was a nice way to spend an hour. However, we asked at the front desk where we could find a hot spring like those shown in the pictures. We were told the picture we asked about was nearby, but that "it won't look like that." I wonder if there are any left in the country that haven't been taken over by hotels.

One final thing: these photos are of our hotel room. In an emergency guests get to practice their rappelling skills! Neither William nor I had ever seen this before in any hotel, and thought the idea was a little scary, especially from our ninth floor room, because the emergency hook wasn't very strong.

20 February 2009

end of a dry spell

I haven't done much worth posting about lately. I've been on vacation for most of Jan. and Feb. but a sinus infection kept me home for a couple weeks and really cold weather has kept me from doing much else. William has been working, woohoo!

But yesterday was a friend's birthday and she wanted to do something girly, so three of us went to a nail salon in Songtan. For the first time in my life I had a professional manicure. My nails look nice (although I've already fudged some polish), but by far the best part was the hand and forearm massage! It makes me want to go for a pedicure. The thought of a foot massage makes me happy :) Photo: With Adrie, the birthday girl.

After the salon we went to an Indian restaurant where William and a few other friends met up with us for dinner. Every time I eat out with non-Koreans we avoid Korean restaurants. I'm not the only one who doesn't much like the native food.

I had a conversation recently about how it's hard to really like a new country if you don't like the food because so many gatherings revolve around meals. Luckily it's pretty easy to find many other international cuisines. All the main fast food restaurants are here, but I've heard there's typically a Korean twist, like kimchi on a Dominoes pizza. In addition to other Asian cuisines, one can find French, Italian, German, and Mexican restaurants, especially closer to Seoul. William and I tend to stick with Thai and Indian since we love both. We haven't seen many Vietnamese restaurants or we would frequent those too. Photo: Adrie and Rykie (pronounced Raykey w/ rolled 'R'), both from South Africa.

I start work again in early March but William and I are planning some weekend trips since we've been here about six months and have done very little traveling. Here's to finding a lot more tasty foods in our travels!

26 January 2009

snow!

We got a lot of snow this weekend. It started Friday night and continued all day Saturday so it's much prettier now. This was our first big snow and we found out they didn't do much to clear the roads when we went for a short run on Sunday.

William running ahead of me.
One of the main roads in Anjeong-ri.
Rice field.
The view from the front door of our apartment.
The timing of the snow was perfect, for me at least. It started the same day as my winter vacation, so I don't have to walk through the snow to the bus stop to get to work. Yey!